When removing the shifter pin, always use some type of locking pliers so the small roll pin does not roll away. Then when replacing it use a channel lock to squeeze it back in place
The rope is passed through the wood separator to both sides of the body tied with a clove-hitch to the bumper supports
Remove all attached wires, cables, hoses, move the carb to the master cylinder side and tie it there, unattach hoses, and ducting. Leave the grill there but remove the lower body panel and screen. Don't forget the Tachometer and starter wires.
After removing the front lower body panel and screen, unplug the Stator, Coil, and Brushes, wires, they can also be removed from the top but sometimes its easier to do it here.
Remove the wheels, unbolt the caliper (two bolts) bend a s-hook to hang the caliper from the strut springs, in this way you do not have to bleed your brakes when remounting your subframe. Also note the long toung jack needed for subframe removal.
Use a "Come-a-Long" rated to do this type of lifting, use rope strong enough to lift 1000 lbs. drill holes in a length of wood to keep the rope separated and you can lift the body off the subframe.
An alternative removal process would be to jack up or lift the car with the engine still inside, then use an engine hoist and rope or chains to support the engine while you detach everything, and then lower it.
After the engine is removed from the subframe bolt two 6 inch long bolts with a large washer bend it slightly and attach to the engine mount bolt holes. This will allow you to work on your engine and have the capability of turning it over.
The engine on stands (with grooves for the bolts) can be flipped from right side up to up side down.
